Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul is an incredible place. I loved the food, the mosques, the energy of the city — the only thing I didn’t enjoy was the traffic, which was genuinely something else. I felt quite safe the whole time, and Istanbul left me with a very good impression. Turkey in general is a country I’d love to explore much more of.

Time of Year I Visited

I went at the end of September. It was warm.

Did I Feel Safe?

Very safe — our local guide told us it’s one of the safest cities there is, and the data backs that up. Istanbul’s crime index is actually lower than Rome, Barcelona, and Athens. Violent crime against tourists is rare. For taxis, use BiTaksi — it’s the most popular and reliable app in Istanbul, with transparent fares and GPS tracking. Uber also works but has a smaller fleet. Another option is to ask your hotel to call a taxi for you, which is what I did and worked well.

At the Grand Bazaar, the men who work there will approach you, compliment you, invite you out — it’s part of the culture, and I think it’s more fun than anything else. They speak five or six languages, so be careful which one you use, because they’ll switch immediately and keep you talking. Don’t take it badly — just enjoy feeling a bit like a queen for the afternoon.

The traffic is another story entirely. It’s the one thing I genuinely hated about Istanbul. If you have a flight, leave for the airport with much more time than you think you need — especially during peak hours. The city has 16 million people and the traffic can be absolutely brutal.—

Where I Stayed

Radisson Hotel President, Old Town Istanbul: Well located and great value for the price. The breakfast view of Istanbul is spectacular — one of those moments that sets the tone for the whole day.

How I Got There

I went on a Turkish Airlines stopover — something worth knowing about. If you’re flying with Turkish Airlines and have a layover in Istanbul, you can turn it into a proper visit without paying for the flights separately. A great way to add a new destination.

What to Wear

Bring a scarf that covers your neckline, your hair, and your head — you’ll need it to enter mosques. Also wear clothing that covers your knees. If you forget, you’ll be paying for a scarf at the entrance every time. That said, the scarves you can buy there are beautiful — I bought two, and I’d do it again.

What’s Worth Doing

The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque): Free to enter, and absolutely stunning. You take your shoes off before going in. Don’t miss it.

Basilica Cistern: An underground water reservoir from the 6th century, built by Byzantine Emperor Justinian I — 336 marble columns holding up a vaulted ceiling above shallow water. It’s atmospheric, cool, and completely different from anything above ground. The famous Medusa heads are down there too. Worth booking tickets in advance to skip the queue, since it’s right next to Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque and gets busy. I thought it was beautiful.

Balat & Fener: Two neighbourhoods that nobody talks about but absolutely worth visiting. Colourful Ottoman houses, bars and cafés, and you can walk along the waterfront of the Golden Horn. They sit right on the water on the European side — historic, authentic, and a completely different side of Istanbul from the tourist centre. Go and wander with no plan.

The ferry to the Asian side: Take it. The experience of crossing from Europe to Asia by boat is something else — and the landscape from the water is beautiful. If you can, go during the day and come back at night — the city lights on the return are stunning. One of those simple things that ends up being one of the most memorable parts of the trip.

The Grand Bazaar: Go and bargain — it’s fun, chaotic, and very Istanbul.

Gedikpaşa Hammam: One of the oldest hammams in Istanbul. I assumed I could keep my bikini on, but no — they have you take off the top and stay in just the bottoms. A woman bathed me and exfoliated my whole body. I won’t lie, having a stranger bathe you feels genuinely strange at first, but I wanted to experience what a real Turkish bath was like. She was incredibly kind, and afterward my skin was exfoliated, soft, and honestly beautiful. Strange experience, but a fun one.

What I Ate

Okra Restaurant: We went in hungry and ended up staying for the food — really good.

Nars Brasserie: A local guide recommended this one, and it was very good.

How Long Did I Stay?

3 days, and I think that’s the right amount — enough time to try the food, walk the neighbourhoods, visit the mosques, and not feel rushed.

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