Ohrid, North Macedonia

Ohrid was one of those places that genuinely surprised me — a hidden gem in every sense. I loved it. The lake is crystal clear, the vibe is incredibly safe and relaxed, you can walk everywhere, and the whole place has a charm that’s hard to put into words. Some people visit as a day trip from Albania, but honestly, that doesn’t do it justice. It’s a place you want to stay in, see by day and by night.

Time of Year I Visited

I went in June. During the day it was hot — a light jacket at night was enough.

Did I Feel Safe?

Super safe. One of the most relaxed places I visited on this whole trip — you can walk anywhere at any time without feeling uneasy.

Where I Stayed

Villa Sofija: A beautiful boutique hotel — big, comfortable rooms with stunning views of both the lake and the city. Really well located, near Kaneo, with great restaurants nearby. And Svetlana, the host, was super helpful and friendly. Loved it.

What’s Worth Doing

Kaneo area: The neighbourhood around Kaneo Beach is one of the most beautiful parts of Ohrid. Walking along the waterfront is gorgeous, and perched on the cliff above the beach is the Church of St. John at Kaneo — a medieval Orthodox church from the 13th century, with frescoes and views over the lake that are absolutely stunning. It’s one of the most iconic images of the entire region.

Potpes Beach Restaurant: I spent a day here — rented a sunbed and enjoyed being by the water. The pizza was excellent. One thing to know before you go in the lake: the water is cold, around 17 degrees, but with the heat of June you barely feel it. Bring water shoes or sandals with grip, because the bottom is rocky.

The boat tour with Nikola: I did a wine tasting boat tour that ended up being combined with a panoramic tour — so I got two in one. The group was three English people, a Polish couple, and me. Nikola was the captain — you can reach him at +389 78 356 263, or book through GetYourGuide. They served local cheeses and rakija — a traditional Balkan fruit spirit that can hit anywhere from 40% to 65% alcohol. Not for the faint-hearted — on board. At some point when we were taking photos on the boat, I channelled my inner dancer — I used to dance more, but you never really stop being a dancer — and did a full leg split pose for the camera. The British lot lost it. We were all in stitches. That’s solo travel — you never know who you’re going to end up on a boat with, or what you’re going to end up doing.

What I Ate

Kaj Kanevche: Right by the lake — having lunch there with that view is something else. The classic Ohrid trout is on the menu and it was delicious, but what genuinely surprised me were the zucchinis with garlic and parsley — the best zucchinis I’ve ever eaten in my life. Not something I would have ordered on my own, but the waiter insisted and he was absolutely right. Try them.

Alexandria Restaurant: The restaurant of the hotel Alexandria, right by the lake — having dinner there at night with that view is beautiful. I tried the Shopska salad — which I think was the best Shopska in all of Macedonia. It sounds simple (tomatoes, cucumber, white cheese), but the tomatoes were so fresh and it just worked perfectly. Worth trying even if you’ve had it elsewhere.

Taverna Momir: I went specifically to try the Ohridsko Makalo — the famous garlic cream from Ohrid. It’s a traditional local sauce, silky and creamy, made with garlic and olive oil, pearl-white in colour. I had it with the trout. If you’re in Ohrid, you have to try it.

How Long Did I Stay?

2 days — and honestly, I would have stayed longer. Ohrid is one of those places that gets under your skin. There’s something about the lake, the old town, the pace of it all that makes you want to slow down and just… stay.

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