Yogyakarta, Indonesia
I flew from Bali to Yogyakarta. Most people go just for Prambanan and Borobudur, but it has a lot more to offer than that.
Yogyakarta is one of the most culturally rich cities in Java — very different from Bali, which is predominantly Hindu. Here the culture is more conservative and traditionally Islamic, which is worth keeping in mind.
Time of Year I Visited
I went in August, during the dry season. It gets very hot, so go early in the morning for the temples.
Did I Feel Safe?
In general, yes. But when I first arrived in Yogyakarta, I felt very observed by men — which I think has to do with the cultural context, where women are typically covered, and I wasn’t. I’ve travelled to a lot of places and I don’t usually feel uncomfortable, but here, at first, I did.
Where I Stayed
POP! Hotel Malioboro: Well located, comfortable, no luxury obviously, but it did the job at the time.
What’s Worth Doing
I went to both Borobudur and Prambanan. For Borobudur, I went for sunrise — absolutely incredible. For Prambanan, I didn’t manage to catch the sunset, which was what I wanted, but I went in the morning because the heat later in the day is brutal. I did them on two separate days — the distance between them makes trying to do both in one day too much.
I also hired a private driver named Tugi through jogjakartadriver.com — a great resource if you need a driver in Yogyakarta. He put together the whole itinerary and took me to a series of places outside the city. We got along incredibly well, and by the end of the two days we’d become friends. When the tour was over, he gave me some local sweet potatoes, freshly cooked, as a gift. They were the best sweet potatoes I’ve ever tasted in my life — so naturally sweet on their own that I still think about them to this day. I felt so grateful for the gesture. He was a genuinely good person. Tugi took me to the following places:
Kebun Teh Nglinggo: The only tea plantation in the Yogyakarta region, set on a hillside about an hour and a half from the city. Rolling green fields of tea plants, mountain views, fresh air. You can try local tea on site and walk around the trails. It’s the kind of place that makes you breathe differently. They also gave me a duck egg to try — it was incredibly salty, just on its own.
Timang Beach: A dramatic rocky clifftop beach, famous for its traditional gondola that crosses over crashing waves to a small rocky island. Open from 9am to 5pm, with a small entrance fee plus parking. Once you park, the last few kilometers to the beach and gondola aren’t accessible by car — you have to take a local motorbike taxi (ojek). I went by motorbike, with a local man driving me. The last stretch is covered in loose stones and pebbles — riding a motorbike over them feels like you’re about to fly off at any moment, but the drivers do it every day and know exactly what they’re doing. Just know that’s coming. Once there, you can cross by rope bridge on foot or ride across in a gondola. I suffer from vertigo, but I wanted to do it anyway. I spent about 30 minutes meditating until I found the strength to cross — and I did it, and I didn’t regret it. Sometimes travelling puts you in these situations where you have to face your fears.
Jomblang Cave: One of the most extraordinary caves in Indonesia — a vertical sinkhole where you descend about 60 meters on a harness into an underground forest, and once you’re down there, a beam of natural sunlight pierces through the opening above and illuminates the cave below. They call it the “Light of Heaven,” and it earns the name. Only around 25 people are allowed in per day, so book in advance. Vertigo knocking at my door again — but another fear faced.
Kedung Pedut Waterfall: A good spot to relax and slow down for a bit.
Kraton Palace: The Sultan’s Palace, right in the centre of the city — the Sultan of Yogyakarta still lives there today. Beautiful and worth visiting.
Taman Sari (Water Castle): About 500 metres from the Kraton, this was the royal pleasure garden built by the Sultan in the 18th century. Pools, pavilions, and a history that’s genuinely fascinating to walk through.
Malioboro Street: The main street of Yogyakarta — walk it, eat things along the way, buy something. It’s the heart of the city.
There was a bar near my hotel called Lucifer Bar & Resto, near Malioboro. I went alone one night for a drink, and there was a live band — they asked what song the crowd wanted, and I shouted “Despacito,” which was everywhere at the time. Ended up dancing with the waiters. Travelling solo doesn’t mean you have to have a bad time, far from it.
Yogyakarta also has some great rooftop bars worth knowing about. The most well-known near Malioboro is the 10/10 Pool Bar Rooftop at the Novotel Suites (Jl. Malioboro 52-58) — 10th floor, city views, live music from 8pm. I went there because it was close to my hotel. Since Yogyakarta feels more like a city than the other places I visited on this trip, and I was alone, I was a bit more careful about how I got around at night. On the way back I took a becak — a traditional three-wheeled pedicab pedaled by a driver, very typical of Yogyakarta. It’s covered, which I liked at night. Cash only, and you negotiate the price before you get in — usually around IDR 20,000-50,000 depending on the distance.
What I Ate
JC Donuts: The best donuts I’ve ever had in my life. You have to try them.
How Long Did I Stay?
2 days. There’s a lot to pack in — the temples alone take two separate days — but it’s very doable and worth every minute.
Been to Yogyakarta solo? Share your experience using the review form below.
