Cusco is one of those cities that hits differently. The former capital of the Inca Empire, sitting at over 3,400 metres above sea level, with colonial Spanish architecture built on top of ancient Inca foundations. It’s beautiful, it’s intense, and it will take your breath away — literally.

Time of Year I Visited

I went in June. The weather was good for walking and hiking.

Altitude — Read This Before You Go

This is important. Cusco sits at over 3,400 metres above sea level, and altitude sickness is real. Here’s what worked for me:

• Arrive at least one day before you plan to do anything — let your body adjust
• Drink a lot of water. More than you think you need.
• Avoid alcohol when you first arrive
• Buy antisoroche pills (altitude sickness tablets) — they made a real difference for me
• Walk when you arrive, even if you feel dizzy — movement helps
• Drink coca tea — it’s everywhere and it genuinely helps
• Get Agua Florida — a traditional remedy for altitude headaches
• Do NOT go straight to Machu Picchu or the mountains the day you arrive. Your body needs time.

Did I Feel Safe?

Yes, I felt safe in the tourist areas — and Cusco has a lot of them. It’s one of the most visited cities in South America, so the centre is well-lit, busy, and has a strong tourist police presence. That said, we’re still talking about Latin America, so common sense applies: watch your belongings in markets and crowded spots, and use a taxi app or ask your hotel to arrange one rather than flagging down a random cab on the street.

One specific thing worth knowing: there have been reports of drinks being spiked in the bars around the Plaza de Armas. Cover your drink, don’t accept drinks from strangers, and trust your gut.

Where I Stayed

Samaiwasi Youth Hostel — private room, in the San Blas neighbourhood. San Blas is one of the most charming parts of Cusco — cobblestone streets, artisan shops, a real bohemian feel, and about 10 minutes walking from the Plaza de Armas. The hostel sits on a hill, so the views of Cusco from up there are beautiful — especially at breakfast. The rooms are spacious and comfortable. Not luxurious, but genuinely lovely for Cusco. One thing to keep in mind: you have to climb quite a few stairs to get there, and at this altitude, those stairs are no joke. But the views make it worth it.

What’s Worth Doing

Rainbow Mountain & Red Valley: I went with Rainbow Mountain Travels, and I’d recommend them specifically because they leave very early — we never crossed paths with other tour groups, which made the whole experience much more special.

Fair warning: this is hard. The mountain sits at around 5,200 metres above sea level. Breathing is genuinely difficult — people around me were vomiting, and some had to finish the climb on horseback. But the views are extraordinary. Go at your own pace, don’t rush, and let the altitude guide your speed.

From Rainbow Mountain, you can continue another 20-40 minutes to the Red Valley (Valle Rojo) — it costs around 20-30 soles extra in cash, paid at a community checkpoint. Honestly? I ended up loving the Red Valley even more than Rainbow Mountain. It’s quieter, less crowded, and the deep crimson landscape feels like another planet entirely. Don’t skip it.

Valle Sagrado (Sacred Valley): I did a tour with Kantu Tours. The landscapes are extraordinary — and the day covers several stops. We went to Pisac, with its Inca ruins perched on the mountainside and a colourful local market below. Then to Ollantaytambo, an impressive Inca fortress town where the original Inca streets are still inhabited today. And finally Chinchero, where local women demonstrated the entire traditional textile process — spinning, natural dyeing, and weaving. They showed us how the colours change depending on what plant or mineral they use. I found it fascinating. I met another solo traveller on this tour and we ended up spending the whole day together exploring.

How Long Did I Stay?

Around 4-5 days — and I’d recommend that amount for two reasons. First, you need at least one day to acclimatize before doing anything strenuous. And second, there’s genuinely a lot to do. Between Rainbow Mountain, the Red Valley, the Sacred Valley, the city itself, and the day trips to Machu Picchu, Cusco rewards the time you give it.

From Cusco, I continued to Aguas Calientes to visit the iconic Machu Picchu — read all about it here.

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